If we were the marketing department of Marks and Sparks we might be tempted to say something like 'Now there's Steak and Kidney Pudding and then there's a Porters Steak and Kidney Pudding,' affectionately referred to by the team here as 'Kate and Sidney Pudding'.
But we're not and being a modest bunch, we won't.
Of course we’d want you to know that we really do source the very best British beef and Ox’ kidneys then trim, dice, seal, season and with loving care and generosity pop this sturdy mixture into our homemade handmade suet pots. Finally we tuck them up carefully into little muslin blankets then ambiently and oh soooooo gently steam them for four hours.
The result of all this love, care and attention is quite simply and arguably the finest example of a meaty, appetite-provoking Steak and Kidney Pudding on the planet. Rumpole of the Bailey, a man who knew his tucker as well as some of his closest clients, would have been generous in his pronouncement.
What was that we said about modesty?
One of the most fascinating revelations from a study of this traditional English favourite dish is that many people who are normally a bit sniffy about eating kidney, no matter how good its provenance, will gaily forget all about it when the camouflage of steak and suet crust is introduced.
Generally served with mashed potatoes, green peas and steamed vegetables it is one of those well anticipated compensations for the rigours of winter, particularly when accompanied by an equally robust bevy or two. Many a shooting party that has been brought back to life at lunchtime after a lack lustre morning and gone on into the afternoon drives with spectacular results, has steak and kidney pudding to thank.
At the centre of such a revival is good chuck steak, an ox kidney cut into cubes and some beef stock, an onion sharpens the pleasure as does a heavy handed dash of Worcestershire Sauce. Steak and kidney pudding is a kindly dish, and for those in charge of its production who might be suffering from a touch of the Floyds, or over committed multi-taskers, there is a good chance they will get away with it.
In truth more than a few who extol this exuberant dish would confess to finding the suet crust pastry every bit as enticing as the aromatic kidneys. It is wide open to variations, about which an entertaining book could probably be written. Few sights on the table are more evocative than the igloo-like appearance of this simple satisfying food, from which the richly gravied meat and aroma is released by a skilled incision of the host, to universal approbation.
This is a dish for men, and women with men's culinary appetites.
Porters Steak & Kidney Pudding Recipe
1 oz Butter
1 Onion, large, finely chopped
1 ½ lbs Chuck steak, 1” cubes
8 oz Ox kidney, ½” cubes
1 pt Beef stock
10 oz Self-raising flour
5 oz Beef suet (shortening)
1 tablespoon Parsely, chopped
½ teaspoon Salt
Black pepper
Worcestshire Sauce
Cold water
Beef gravy
4 x ½ pint Pudding basins
Method
Mix the onion, steak, kidney and parsley in a large bowl, and season well.
To make the pastry: sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Stir in the shredded suet and then add cold water gradually, using a knife mix until the dough is soft and elastic. Turn out onto a floured board and knead lightly for 2-3 minutes. Take ¾ of the dough and split it into four. Butter the inside of the pudding basins. Roll out each ¼ of the dough into large enough circles to line the pudding basins; using your finger-tips bring the pastry just above the edge of the basin.
Divide the meat mixture in four and spoon into the basins, then add a splash of Worcestershire Sauce to each. Top up the basins with the beef stock.
Take the remaining dough and split in four. Roll out each ¼ of the dough into large enough circles to cover the top of the basin and lay on top of the meat mixture. With some water wet the edges of the dough and bring them over the lid to seal the pudding. Cover the basin with muslin or foil, allow extra foil for expansion, and tie with string. Place in a steamer, or covered pan, with the boiling water half way up the basins. Steam for four hours, topping up the water whenever necessary.
Once cooked allow to rest for 5 minutes and then turn out onto a plate, using a palette knife if need be, finish by pouring over the gravy.
